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The multi-award perfume critic explores the new trend for injecting health-conscious notes into perfumes
The gym makes you feel guilty. All those diet books in the shops make you feel guilty. And now your perfume is going to make you feel guilty. Well, maybe that last one is a slight exaggeration. But in recent months, there have been quite a few scent releases featuring what we might call ‘health food’ notes, such as nuts, herbs and berries.
Of course, evocations of edible materials have been present in perfumery for quite some time. You don’t need to look further than Mugler’s Angel for proof of that. But they do seem to have gone through something of a shift lately, perhaps because we’re all becoming increasingly conscious of the quality of the produce we put on our plates. We’re moving away from sugar and turning our attention to sensible, savoury notes.
Here’s a selection of some of the more interesting nouveau-gourmand creations… all of which you can enjoy with absolutely no guilt whatsoever!
Angel Muse by Quentin Bisch
(Thierry Mugler)
As you might have expected, the folks at Mugler haven’t ignored the health craze. Their latest iteration of Angel retains the sugar-bomb core but renders it more modern with desiccated hazelnuts and woods.
Ukiyo-E by Anais Biguine
(Gri Gri)
Green tea is one of the trendiest food products at the moment and sure enough, it finds its way into a perfume. In Ukiyo-E, its steamed, herbal quality makes an effective counterpoint to a sour cherry note.
This Is Her by Sidonie Lancesseur and Michel Almairac
(Zadig & Voltaire)
Yes, we have vanilla and whipped cream here, but they’re tempered with an intriguing chestnut facet, which cuts through the sweetness and introduces a curious burnt effect.
MMMM… by Romano Ricci
(Juliette Has A Gun)
Although the base of MMMM… is a traditionally calorific gourmand, Ricci has toned down the sweetness with an endearing almond note, which is as bitter as it is marzipan-like.
Mentha Religiosa by Fabrice Pellegrin
(Dear Rose)
The energy-boosting force of mint is paired with the tart facets of liquorice to contrast with the heavy, velvety, cocooning vanilla base. The overall effect is lip-smackingly unusual.
Modern Muse Nuit
(Estée Lauder)
In keeping with the scent’s name, there’s a suitably nocturnal quality emanating from the vanilla and the tonka in the base, but they’re made lighter with the inclusion of chamomile and blackcurrant.
Parco Palladiano IV by Alexis Dadier
(Bottega Veneta)
Although the main note that envelops the wearer in this composition is a thick, intoxicating honey, there’s no doubt that it’s made more palatable with the help of what feels like finely chopped nuts.
Star Of The Season elixir edition by Dominique Ropion
(Orlov)
Almond pops up again in this bold, larger-than-life creation, where the nutty facets bring a welcome twist to the unashamedly sticky, gluttonous vanilla base.
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