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ParfumPlus always takes pleasure having conversations with the people who love what they do. In conversation with Thierry Fleurichamp and Nathalie Templer from Expressions Parfumees, talking about their passionate experiences…
Thierry Fleurichamp started his career in West Indies in 1987. Today, he heads the Fragrances For SAMEA region division at Expressions Parfumees. In this issue, he shares his insights on how the acquisition by Givaudan will help Expressions grow and reach out to more customers.
ParfumPlus (PP): With Expressions Parfumees being acquired by Givaudan, what exactly is the strength that Expression Parfumees adds to this association?
Thierry Fleurichamp (TF): We have different customers size and profile which requires flexibility ( small MOQ) , speed (delivery time max 10 days) and close service , also the fact we are located in Grasse and Givaudan was always seeking an opportunity to return to their roots. Finally our knowledge and expertise in 100% natural products (NATCO) which gives them access to our key customers.
PP: You are considered as someone who knows this region and the market in depth. What do you personally feel about this association and what do you see as the long term plan?
TF: It is a WIN / WIN deal as we keep our independence thus, we can send a clear message to our customers and ensure that EXPRESSIONS keep its identity. Our deep knowledge and expertise in the fine fragrance market lead us to manage different types of customers, very complementary to GIVAUDAN customer’s network and segment. There is no overlapping but very fair business strategy and close communication in order to target customers and take market share from competitors.
PP: Givaudan is a global leader. Does this merger give Expressions access to the research, innovations and insights that Givaudan is working on? If yes, how do you see it impacting Expressions approach to perfumery in this region?
TF: We have access to the raw material pallet and we take benefit of GIVAUDAN contract for some raw material; but of course the real advantage isf the captive of Givaudan and substitute raw material which give us a real advantage to compare others companies from our size. We have also access to their innovation such as caps for home care products…. Its helps to bring to our customers level such technology and key advantage for the fine fragrance development. Our approach is now very different of course and we can cover fully the medium size and small size customers of the region.
PP: This is the beauty of this deal for both companies
TF: Yes of course. As leader Givaudan think about this strategy and invest on EXPRESSIONS PARFUMEES for representing them in the market category where there is a lot of medium / small brands servicing by a number of competitors.
PP: How have your existing and potential clientele responded to the news of this merger? What are their expectations? Can you name a few popular clients and their personal reaction/ feedback?
TF: Our customers at the beginning were very septic about the change imposed by such a big company like Givaudan and our capacity to absorb it. but month after month both companies learn to know of other and we have now found a good synergies and our customers don’t see any change before and after but just benefits. Short delivery time, same service and flexibility and small order quantity. I cannot disclose the name of our popular customers which are very known from everyone in this market and who give us full confidence and trust.
PP: Recently there have been many changes in the perfume industry and an extremely high number of product launches. What is the reason for this and what do you see as the future?
TF: There is a number of factors which affected the whole industry such as Shortage of raw material, some industrial accident in INDIA and GERMANY, some new anti-pollution regulations in China and an increase of forbidden raw material hitting the perfumery industry forcing us to reformulate our perfumes.
The industry remain very active and the number of launches translate this envy from brands to launch a new variant as often as they can in order to maintain their status, versus the numbers of MASSTIGE brands local and regional offering a great array of creations and innovations.
The future of the creation in the region remain very active according to me as long as peoples shows interested in the local brands and local brands translate the move and mood of people of middle east.
Perfumer Nathalie Templer shares her insights on perfumery and her association to Expressions Parfumees.
ParfumPlus (PP): Tell us something about your journey as a perfumer and your association with Expressions Parfumees
Nathalie Templer (NT): After my scientific studies in Chemistry in France, I started my career in a small company in Grasse during 3 years where I get the chance to see the different aspects of the Perfumery Industry; from Production to Quality Control through R&D or Sales.
Then, I worked as a Perfumer Analyst 10 years in Mane where I became a GC/MS expert analyzing and smelling all the Naturals and Synthetics Raw Materials we can use in our profession.
After 2 years of expatriation in Dubai’s office, I needed a new challenge in my life and Expressions Parfumées gave me the chance to achieve my dream and my passion to become Perfumer. Since our association, I deeply feel myself in the creative department.
PP: How has the BASF Force Majeure and the shortfall of a few key ingredients impacted your business? How did you and your team manage to face the challenges. Please elaborate.
NT: Impact was brutal and unexpected. We reacted quickly, all the team is working on reformulation now. Of course, it affects the price of formulas, we need to be very transparent with our customer. Reactivity and closeness is the key and the asset of Expressions Parfumées.
As Perfumer, it pushes our limits. This is why our job is always moving… we need to use other RM from our palette, to (re)discover some we forgot to put in light some captives molecules or some specialties (since our acquisition by Givaudan) to create differently.
PP: The classic question about Synthetics v/s Naturals… what is your opinion on this?
NT: Simply, one does not go without the other!
In Middle East, people want performance, lasting, diffusion … You only can achieve the expectation of customers/consumers (quality and price) using both.
Expressions Parfumées is also specialized using only Naturals and develops NATCOR creations unsurprisingly impacting the price.
PP: For a Perfumer, what are the advantages and disadvantages that he or she faces while working in this region?
NT: Since 5 years I’m in Dubai, I barely face disadvantages. I heard before I joined Expressions Parfumées : “it’s not easy to be a woman and a perfumer in this area” which is totally wrong.
We work with customers who are deeply respectful and even when language could be difficult we find our way. It is the beauty of perfumes, it speaks for itself!
PP: Which is your favorite perfume from your own creations? And why?
NT: A creation I developed with a colleague for a Niche brand (launch is planned soon). It was very nice to work as a team along with our customer step by step. To smell and evaluate trials depending on the facette our client wanted to find the perfect accord is pretty intense but very enriching experience.
I love the earthy, oak moss note of Patchouli, it remains my childhood in Versailles playing in the forest after the rain.
I also spend all my vacation in Mougins (French Riviera) before moving there so I grow up smelling plenty of floral note from Rose to Jasmine through Mimosa or Tuberose.
PP: What, according to you, is the uniqueness about the perfume-lover in the Middle East region?
NT: It seems to be completely part of their DNA. It’s cultural and traditional. Mixing perfumes, burning bakhour, smoking shisha. As soon as you reach Dubai Airport, you feel transported into another world full of spice, balsamic, woody notes. It’s fascinating!
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