Born in the beautiful city of Paris, Sidonie’s fascination for perfumes started at a young age and grew considerably stronger during her summer internship at Robertet, Grasse. She became a professional perfumer under the training of expert perfumer Michel Almairac in 2006
ParfumPlus (PP): Hi Sidonie. Welcome to Dubai. I’ve been told this is your first visit to the city. How do you feel?
Sidonie Lancesseur (SL): Dubai is an amazing place that is moving forward every day. Futuristic, innovative, always looking for more.This city seems to have no limits in achieving its desires.
PP: To start with, please tell us, how do you interpret a perfume or what does perfume mean to you?
SL: As a perfumer, my first reaction when I smell a perfume is to analyse it, to decrypt it and understand the structure. However, the perfume is above all an inexhaustible source of emotion which I mostly associate with a personal memory or to a person.
PP: What is the one thought that inspires you when it comes to creating any perfume?
SL: My work is inspired by everything in my environment: it can be a glass of wine, an exhibition, a book atmosphere… And also all different people that I meet thanks to my job: their approach, their sensitivity, our discussions guide me everyday.
PP: What according to you is the one quality that defines every fragrance?
SL: For me, the essential quality for a perfume is its message which has to be clear. The interactions between all raw materials must be structured, clear and mastered.
PP: What does Oudh mean to you?
SL: I am particularly attached to oudh because I discovered it through the M7 by Yves Saint Laurent which is one of the perfume that I used to wear. It was one of the first of experiences of using this raw material in an ‘occidental’ perfume. The oudh is for me a precious, elegant, warm, stylish raw material that gives the fragrance an instantly recognizable character.
PP: When did you know that being a perfumer was your true calling and what inspired you to take up perfumery as a career?
SL: I’ve always been interested in odors. I remember an encounter when I was 12 years old with my parents friend who was in the perfume industry. She shared with me her passion and aroused within me the desire to express myself through scent. Few years later, it was the training period at Robertet which confirmed my passion and the desire to make it my job.
PP: Is there a perfumer or some other creative person in the perfume industry that you admire and look up to? Please tell us a little more about this person?
SL: I am lucky to work closely with Michel Almairac: a master perfumer who shares his knowledge and immense talent. I share his taste in short formulation where each raw material has a reason to be. This way of work suits my character: always trying to get to the point.
PP: Which is your favourite raw material and why do you like to work with it?
SL: In perfumery we always learn that the tastes progress with time and experience. Through my childhood memories, I often come back to woody notes like patchouli and vetiver.Those woody wet and smoked notes remind me of my family country house or undergrowth during fall. However Robertet gives me the opportunity to rediscover all other naturals raw materials and work with the best qualities
PP: What is your opinion about the classic debate about naturals v/s synthetics?
SL: In my opinion one could not exist without the other. A balanced fragrance is a perfect blend between natural and synthetic raw materials.
PP: From amongst your creations till date, do you have a few that you consider as your favourites?
SL: Each of my creation match with a moment of my life, so I am attached to each of them.
For example, I have a special feeling for Straight to Heaven by Kilian. I worked on a rhum-patchouli accord on my own during a few months. When I first met Kilian he asked me to create a unique fragrance with a strong undertone. I had him smell this scent. The origin of Straight to Heaven was there, and our collaboration did the rest.
PP: From being considered a luxury to gradually evolving as a necessity in everyday dressing, perfumes have come a long way. As a perfumer, please tell us how do you perceive this change?
SL: With the arrival of all new sources of information, consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the fragrance and our business. They become more curious, demanding and researching perfumes closely linked with their identity. The brands have to become more and more creative while using the best quality of raw materials in order to cater to this evolving consumer mind set.
Sidonie’s Creations
Accredited with being the nose behind some extremely popular perfumes, Sidonie has always been inspired by the things around her when it comes to creating a fragrance.
Here is a look at some of Sidonie’s recent creations:
Incense Oud By Kilian: Heavily inspired from the Arab traditions, this is a unisex perfume that blends spicy and floral notes on a oudh base to create a mesmerising scent. Blending ingredients like cardamom, pink pepper and rose with a strong dose of sandalwood, oakmoss and French labdanum, this is a fragrance ideal for those who like to wear a strong perfume.
Sunshine by Amouage: Another of Sidonie’s creations, this perfume is a Oriental fragrance developed exclusively for women. Combining floral notes, the unique accord of this scent ensures that applying it rejuvenates the senses. The floral notes of jasmine and magnolia give it a soft yet lasting fragrance.
Rose Royale 1935 by Lalique: This perfume is a part of the LALIQUE NOIR PREMIER collection comprising of six distinct fragrances with timeless character that are inspired by the blend of traditional and modern. Rose Royale 1935 is a beautiful floral fragrance, with woody, leathery notes that give it a sensuous yet elegant accord.
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