In conversation with ParfumPlus magazine, Jerome Epinette, Master Perfumer at Robertet Group, shares insights into his instinctive creative process, the power of natural raw materials, and the inspiration behind Love Hibiscus, revealing how emotion, culture, and craftsmanship come together to create fragrances that leave a lasting impression.
ParfumPlus: You’ve built a distinctive body of work as a perfumer. How would you describe your approach to creation today?
Jerome Epinette: My approach to creation today is quite instinctive and shaped by everything that surrounds me. Every colour, brand, landscape, piece of art, place and my everyday experience feed my creativity and inspire me in crafting new fragrances.
Early in my career, I started to associate ingredients with colours, destinations and dishes, and over time, this became very natural to me. Sometimes, it can be as simple as a conversation that sparks my creative process, where certain ingredients naturally come to mind, and this is how a formula begins to take shape.
PP: Working within Robertet Group, how does the house’s approach to raw materials and formulation influence the way you create?
JE: Being part of Robertet Group, the worldwide leader in natural raw materials, gives me the privilege of working with an exceptionally wide and rich palette, including the most beautiful natural ingredients, in a wide range of qualities, each with its own unique olfactory signature.
At Robertet, cultivating our savoir-faire in naturals from the very beginning is essential. As perfumers, we can experience this directly by travelling to meet our farmers and visiting the fields where everything starts. In my creations, there is a strong human dimension, as I feel a deep connection to these ingredients, knowing the people behind them and the work behind their cultivation.
PP: With Love Hibiscus, what was the first feeling or idea that set the fragrance in motion?
JE: For Love Hibiscus, I drew my inspiration from my last trip to Oman. I was visiting Amouage and remembered the beautiful hibiscus bush in front of the store, while the scent of incense lingered in the air.
Together with Renaud Salmon, Chief Creative Officer of Amouage, we started discussing the idea of this disruptive hibiscus accord. I also had in mind a caramelised incense note that would be both addictive and very sophisticated, in line with the spirit of Amouage.
Then the creative process began, and through ongoing and enriching exchanges with Renaud, we gradually refined and enriched the composition until we achieved the perfect signature.
PP: Hibiscus is not an obvious note in fine perfumery. What drew you to it, and how did you choose to interpret it?
JE: Hibiscus is rarely used in perfumery. It is a very singular flower, rich in texture, with a slightly crepe-like, velvety feel and many nuances. What interested me most was this tactile quality, which I wanted to translate into fragrance.
To express it, I worked through different facets, highlighting its tea-like character, along with a rhubarb note to illustrate its nuances, which I also pushed to enhance the intensity and evoke its bright red colour.
To adorn the hibiscus, I added an addictive woody base with papyrus and incense, anchoring the accord in the identity of Amouage.
PP: The composition feels both radiant and intimate. How did you arrive at that balance?
JE: To create this balance between radiance and intimacy, I used several ingredients across different layers. I played with a citrusy bergamot and sparkling pepper to bring a luminous glow, which I combined with blackcurrant and rhubarb to push this effect. Meanwhile, I designed a comforting, sensual addiction through a gourmand profile, with vanilla and caramel notes.
PP: Amouage has a strong and recognisable olfactory identity. How do you step into that world while still retaining your own voice?
JE: In all my creations, whatever the olfactive direction, I aim to bring a sense of addiction. It is an essential part of my signature, creating an immediate attraction and a lasting desire to come back to the scent.
For Love Hibiscus, I expressed this through gourmand and fruity accents, while keeping the rich, unique, and strong olfactive identity of Amouage. The idea was to find the right balance between brightness and depth, so the fragrance feels both inviting and memorable.
PP: You’ve worked across different cultures and markets. How has the Middle East shaped your perspective on scent?
JE: The perfumery culture in the Middle East is truly unique and very different from what I’ve experienced elsewhere. Fragrance is part of everyday life, deeply rooted in daily rituals through different steps, with a level of passion that is both inspiring and rare.
I’m especially drawn to the intensity of the sillage, the complexity of the compositions, and the authenticity of the high-quality raw materials. It’s a universe that naturally speaks to me.
At the same time, the Middle Eastern market is very curious and open, always exploring new influences while staying true to its identity. This balance really resonates with me and reflects the way I approach perfumery as well.
PP: Perfumery often speaks of storytelling, but is there a risk of over-explaining a scent that should simply be felt?
JE: I believe that storytelling driven by authenticity and simplicity is key to connecting with consumers and sparking curiosity around a fragrance. Although storytelling is important, perfume also remains highly subjective and personal. A scent can trigger different emotions and memories in one person than in another. In that sense, storytelling guides rather than defines the experience, leaving space for individual interpretation.
PP: In a market saturated with launches, what still gives a fragrance the power to linger, not just on skin, but in memory?
JE: That is really the challenge for a perfumer to create something that feels both unique and meaningful. It starts with how an initial inspiration is interpreted and transformed, finding a new expression while still staying true to the perfumer’s own olfactive identity.
In a way, it is similar to a painter and their personal style. People are drawn to that singularity and sensitivity. They may explore and discover new things, but they are loyal and always come back to a style they recognise and feel connected to.
PP: What message would you like to share with ParfumPlus readers?
JE: What I would like to share is that, beyond trends, everything starts with the quality of the raw materials and a true sense of authenticity. Passion and curiosity are essential, as it brings life and meaning to each creation.
In the end, what makes a fragrance truly successful is the emotion it creates and the lasting impression it leaves on each person. As a perfumer, what I love is the ability to evoke memories and bring a sense of pleasure to others, which is what makes this craft so special to me.
Amouage is a great example of this approach, where each perfumer brings their own style while preserving a strong and authentic olfactive signature.
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