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Beautiful Fragrances Have To Be Done Beautifully
Valérie de La Peschardière, Business Development Head for Naturality at Givaudan shares Givaudan’s vision and programs to create Nature-Conscious Fragrances - Fragrances with improved environmental profiles, a massive step in perfumery history
ParfumPlus Magazine : Givaudan has officially shared 2 years ago its company purpose: “Creating for healthier and happier lives, with Love for Nature”. How does that translate into fragrance creation?
Valerie De La Peschardiere : Givaudan’s vision is that beautiful fragrances have to be done beautifully. It is our responsibility to integrate sustainability at the heart of what we do.
Creating with Love for Nature means creating fragrances not only with the olfactive hedonic result in mind, or the fragrance performances aspects, but also integrating some new parameters like the environmental profile of the ingredients used, how they are made, if they have a good carbon footprint, if they are biodegradable etc…
Creating with Love for Nature means creating beautiful fragrances that consumers love yet in a responsible way. Considering the overall impacts of a formula.
PP : What does “responsible” mean for fragrance design? What are the key ecological parameters when it comes to fragrance?
VDLP : Being responsible is first of all knowing what we do! In our case knowing perfectly well the profile of the 1500 ingredients that we use! The key criteria for a responsible ingredient in perfumery is: is it renewable? Is it sustainably sourced? Is it biodegradable? Is the carbon footprint optimized?
Building this unique data bank on all our ingredients has been a long road. But now we know how to build progress and measure it! Our target is to have 100% renewable and biodegradable ingredients by 2030. This is an unprecedented shift of our palette.
Then responsible means creating responsible innovations, meaning new ingredients which are better in terms of impacts, than the previous generations of ingredients. In synthetics this is our program Five Carbon Path™ and in Naturals, this is what we can “Naturals at Origin”, as there is no better way than developing new naturals directly from the fields, to avoid transportation impacts and keeping the value in the country of origin.
Apart from this palette revolution, there is another shift going on: the shift in the way our perfumers are designing fragrances. And this pushes the boundaries of creativity!
PP : What kind of fragrances are nature-conscious as you say at Givaudan?
VDLP : Our Perfumery and development teams are developing proactively 100% renewable fragrances, a fantastic creative journey, but also 100% biodegradable fragrances. It smells good and different! It’s super exciting to do great fragrances knowing that they will bring positive impacts.
Another design that could totally change the deal is to work at very low dosage, to generate an immediate lower carbon footprint by at least reducing volumes which are transported.
PP : Do you have a strong demand already for responsible fragrances from your clients?
VDLP : Most of our clients have sustainability targets, which can only be achieved through a shift of their product design. Life cycle analysis has shown that packaging is one of the biggest impacts, so a lot is going on regarding new sustainable packaging. The next challenge is of course the formulas!
PP : Talking about impacts, are you also considering social positive impacts?
VDLP : Of course! Being responsible is taking into account our partners and suppliers. In the case of natural ingredients, we have been working closely with farmers for more than 15 years, so to support their communities, improve their practices for better yields and revenues, and going beyond to impact positively their livehoods: in Haiti for example, where we develop and buy Vetiver, we have been investing in many programs over the years to improve lives of the local producers, building roads to facilitate the roots transportation to the cooperative, developing water lavatories on site, training farmers to alternative cultures, like vegetables to improve their access to vegetables while reducing soil erosion. This is a priority and The Givaudan Foundation plays a key role in this.
PP : Tell us about your personal motivation in this journey?
VDLP : I love Perfumery, as this is a happiness product with one of the best ratio “Effect vs material consumed” in the world. With a very small amount of material we generate lots of pleasure and well being. This shall continue, in a sustainable way. There is no other way than protecting Nature.
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