Anfasic Dokhoon: Pioneers Of Conscious Oud
Olimpia T. Mascolo on pioneering sustainable oud for Anfasic Dokhoon
In an exclusive conversation with ParfumPlus, Olimpia T. Mascolo, Co-Founder of Anfasic Dokhoon, shares the brand’s journey. From sustainable oud sourcing to introducing creative fragrance rituals, she discusses how Anfasic Dokhoon is redefining luxury perfumery for a greener future.
ParfumPlus : How does Anfasic Dokhoon ensure its fragrances maintain a balance between honouring heritage and appealing to modern sensibilities?
Olimpia T. Mascolo : Since we conceptualised the brand back in 2006, the brand aims to bring you the best of tradition with a flair of modernity, style, and elegance. The striking purple packaging and the minimalistic approach to branding as opposed to the more traditional baroque style of the region make us stand out.
In terms of fragrances, we were the first to blend typical ‘mukhalat’ ingredients such as saffron, nagarmotha and oud with more unconventional notes such as apple, pear, caramel, and even dark chocolate. The result is a range of fragrances that speak to the young generation of explorers.
PP : How has your personal experience shaped Anfasic Dokhoon's fragrance innovation with environmental responsibility?
OTM : I grew up in the countryside in Italy, as a child I used to pick flowers and ask my mother to boil them, these ‘perfumes’ were my magic potions of happiness. Being immersed in nature brings me creativity and inner peace; protecting our planet is the bare minimum we should do while appreciating its beauty.
I translated this into Anfasic Dokhoon back in the early 2010s by developing the concept of Aquilaria, a project aimed at raising awareness around the depletion of Agarwood forests in Southeast Asia.
PP : Anfasic Dokhoon has launched Aquilaria. What inspired you to take this approach, and how does it align with Anfasic Dokhoon's broader brand philosophy?
OTM : Agarwood broadly known as Oud has been a symbol of spirituality and luxury for centuries, however, the rise of oriental perfumery has developed a new demand for this very special tree. The consumption went from being limited to Asia and the Middle East to a worldwide phenomenon.
The demand has risen exponentially in the last 15 years but very few are thinking of the consequences - how many forests are now deserts and how many trees are left? How will our children enjoy the magical aroma of burning oud? These were the initial questions we asked ourselves.
I began the search for farms and spent a year exploring new ways of utilising cultivated oud rather than wild. Finally, Aquilaria Oud sticks were developed in collaboration with a plantation in Vietnam. This year we introduced a very rare type of Srilankan Oud in an innovative coin-shape that we named Oud Cells.
PP : How has the industry responded to Anfasic Dokhoon's conscious Oud initiative? Do you see other perfumers adopting a similar eco-conscious mindset in the future?
OTM : During the creation of new scents, we trust many perfumers are mindful of sustainability. However, no other consumer brand has fully embraced this perspective.
We take pride in positioning ourselves as pioneers of the conscious oud movement. Our commitment goes beyond crafting exceptional fragrances; it reflects a deeper responsibility towards the environment and ethical sourcing.
By leading with this purpose, we aim to set a new standard in the perfume industry, where luxury and sustainability coexist, ensuring that oud, one of the most precious ingredients, is used with care and respect for future generations.
PP : What role does the Shay philosophy play in Aquilaria’s story, and how do you envision it influencing future collections at Anfasic Dokhoon?
OTM : We are actively expanding the Aquilaria line to provide a complete scented ritual for environmentally conscious consumers, aligning
our movement with the goal of engaging new clients and raising awareness.
The name "Shay" embodies sentiments of "wow," "cool," and "exceptional." What could be more exceptional than our beautiful planet, which we strive to protect? By integrating our values into our offerings, we aim to inspire others to join us in safeguarding the environment while indulging in luxurious fragrances that celebrate nature’s beauty.
PP : What challenges did you encounter in balancing the luxury essence of Oud with sustainable sourcing and production?
OTM : Cultivated agarwood trees are inoculated and distilled at a very young age, which makes the chips smaller, and thinner and the smell less intense. This is and will always be a challenge. Wild oud will always differ in smell and quality and will forever hold a ‘hero’ position in customer’s hearts.
It’s hard to compete or replace it, instead, our strategy is to raise awareness of the importance of sustainable products so consumers will understand the compromise to be made is for a greater cause. We are also innovating the ritual itself, matching it with the present’s busy lifestyle by introducing products with less friction that can be enjoyed in a safer, faster manner. Less smoke is a key objective, as well as a faster self-burning oud.
PP : What do you hope the future holds for Anfasic Dokhoon and its impact on the fragrance industry?
OTM : Often, I ask customers how they are embracing a more sustainable living. Most of them will refer to recycling and reusing plastic or glass, but most are unaware of the threat that is haunting agarwood trees. Since we began our journey more than 18 years ago, we have been at the forefront of innovation and doing things differently. We will keep on being the torchbearers leading the industry towards a greener future… or actually purple!
