The Signature: The Art of Shaping Impact
The "Signature" collection by Expressions Parfumées, a range of exclusive captive bases crafted by their talented perfumers to push the limits of creativity
In a world where perfumers are granted creative freedom, the essence of artistry is defined by the subtlety of impact. These bespoke in-house blends are formulated with one core vision: to enrich the fragrance without being overtly detectable. Their role is not to dominate the scent but to quietly elevate it, adding depth, texture, and brightness in ways that remain hidden but essential.
Subtle yet powerful, these bases are more than mere ingredients; they are the invisible force behind the composition’s character, transforming a fragrance while keeping its integrity intact. Just like shadows that subtly enhance light, these captives add new dimensions to a fragrance, pushing the boundaries of what perfumers can create. With "The Signature" collection, new avenues of sensory exploration are opened, allowing for fragrances that are distinguished by their quiet yet undeniable power.
“The creation of this original collection of bases, with its assertive character, reflects the constant desire of our creative teams to imagine the fragrances of tomorrow through an innovative and powerful approach to perfumery. It opens the way to surprising combinations, made possible by innovative faceting, offering access to scents previously unavailable on the market and pushing back the limits of our perfumers' creativity,” – Marie-Eugenie BOUGE, Marketing & Communication Director
The collection begins with five distinct bases:
- FrozenBerry by Stéphane Coez
- NutEssence by Laurence Leon
- CuirEthic by Céline Ripert
- PassionPulp by Laurent Verlaque
- Palaura by Céline Ripert
These five bases will be unveiled at Beautyworld Saudi Arabia 2025, illustrated by a bespoke fragrance collection created through a collaborative four-hand vision by Expressions Parfumées’ fine fragrance perfumers. Let's hear from the perfumers themselves.
ParfumPlus: Stéphane, your approach to perfumery is deeply influenced by architecture, impressionism and jazz. How do these artistic disciplines shape your creative process?
Stéphane Coez: What these three disciplines have in common is that they all follow very precise requirements. Even improvisation in music is subject to very specific rules of harmony to achieve a pleasing result; the same goes for my way of formulating.
I impose guidelines on myself, adopt different perspectives to conceptualise my fragrances, and apply rules of olfactory relationships between ingredients to propose an impactful, direct, and clear signature! Like the Impressionist painters, I like to exaggerate contrasts, work on volumes, and sublimate facets.
PP: FrozenBerry is part of The Signature collection—what was your inspiration behind this base, and how do you see it transforming a fragrance?
SC: I had in mind an image of a frosted blackcurrant berry. I wanted to offer a sensory experience more than an olfactory one; a sensation rather than a smell!
A fragrance that lets you feel the pungent cold of frost balanced by the sweet flavour of red berry coulis. In a creation, FrozenBerry acts as a sensory enhancer, providing a touch of blackcurrant sorbet—fruity but not sweet—that leaves its mark right from the top to the heart.
PP: Laurent, you emphasise intuition in creation. Can you share how your instinct guided the development of Passion Pulp and what makes it unique?
Laurent Verlaque: To create PassionPulp, I transposed myself into the mindset of an aromatician, who instinctively seeks to reproduce nature at its most figurative, whereas a perfumer would seek to embellish it. The starting point was the scent emanating from a freshly cut passion fruit, which accompanied me throughout this creation.
It was a figurative work, seeking to reproduce all the facets—sometimes fruity, sometimes green, or even sulphur—in a quest for naturalness and perfection rather than harmony. I wished to offer the quintessence of the fruit, transporting the perfumers who will use it in their creations to the very heart of the fruit's pulp.
PP: As both a scientist and an artist, how do you balance technical precision with the emotional impact of a fragrance?
LV: The creation of a perfume must be imagined according to the environment for which it is intended. It cannot be free from a technical, even scientific dimension, which demands great precision.
It is within this defined framework of research for performance, suitability, and stability that creativity will express itself, often born of constraints and sublimating the emotional impact inherent in each perfume.
PP: Laurence, you’ve worked across Latin America and Asia—how have these cultural influences shaped your perfumery style?
Laurence Leon: Having the chance to be exposed to dozens of different cultures and rituals associated with the use of flowers, and fruit... Tasting new combinations of foods... all this intensely nourishes creativity born of all these shared scenes of life!
The expression of a fragrance depends so much on its cultural environment, and its meaning can vary greatly from one culture to another. That’s what opens up an infinite field of possibilities—all barriers come down and creativity is unleashed! There's only one watchword for me: the quest
for harmony!
PP: NutEssence is your contribution to The Signature. What was your vision for this base, and how does it elevate a fragrance?
LL: The current hype for gourmand notes left me a little disappointed when it came to reproducing the scent of nuts... In my family, we have a tradition of making our own pralines, and I consume these fruits daily, both for their virtues and the exoticism
they convey.
NutEssence is the fruit of my desire to rediscover the subtly roasted, gourmet scent of pecans and macadamias caramelising in the cauldron... Scents full of emotion, true Proust's madeleines that do good for both body and soul. It can be combined with flowers or woods, adding a surprisingly edible dimension to otherwise unremarkable combinations.
PP: Céline, you created CuirEthic and Palaura for The Signature. What was the inspiration behind these bases, and how do they enhance compositions?
Céline Ripert: Behind the creation of CuirEthic and Palaura, the approach is different, but the objective is the same: to offer high-impact bases that are yet subtle in their faceting and can be used at low dosages so as not to be detected by analytical methods.
The CUIRETHIC speciality is flexible, textured, and intense, with a lively grip right from the top, while offering incredible longevity. It can be used either to add a unique, signature leathery accord to a fragrance or to sublimate certain amber, vanilla, woody, or even fruity facets. With its remarkable intensity, it offers a wide variety of applications, from the obvious to the subtle, which is what makes it so rich.
PALAURA speciality is a meticulously crafted composition, inspired as closely as possible by nature's message in this mystical wood. Its unique olfactory signature adds a sacred, meditative dimension. The Palo Santo note is uncommon in perfumery, and its many facets create unexpected associations that surprise and intrigue.
PP: Natural raw materials play a key role in your work. What is one natural ingredient that continually surprises you, and why?
CR: Patchouli. Because it's irreplaceable, and we haven't yet unlocked all its secrets. It adds a touch of mystery and sensuality to a fragrance. Its use, even in very small quantities, can completely change the balance of a perfume. It’s a local raw material, requiring a specific production process. It can be smelled in the top, middle, and base notes... It’s unique!
