Iberchem : The Poetry Of Perfume
Manuel Bourgaux, Master Perfumer at Iberchem, is a creator who sees perfumery as a dialogue between science and emotion
In this exclusive interview with ParfumPlus Magazine, Manuel Bourgaux, Master Perfumer at Iberchem, opens up about how heritage, culture, and emotion shape his creations. Each fragrance he crafts is a journey, an intricate blend of memory, artistry, and science, waiting to be experienced.
ParfumPlus : You started as a chemist before discovering perfumery. Can you share the moment when creating fragrances became your true calling?
Manuel Bourgaux : It wasn’t a single moment, but a feeling that grew quietly within me. Even before studying chemistry, I was captivated by scents, analysing their nuances, and feeling an instinctive need to create. Perfume became more than curiosity; it became a calling.
Reading Patrick Süskind’s Le Parfum deepened that conviction. One chapter stood out: Grenouille enters a fragrance shop and describes every scent with obsessive precision. That passage resonated deeply with me, capturing the invisible world of emotions and memories hidden inside each bottle. From that point, I wasn’t just working with molecules, I was chasing the poetry within them.
PP : After an illustrious career at Firmenich and Mane, what inspired you to join Iberchem, and how do you see your role shaping the brand’s creative identity in the Middle East?
MB : What inspired me most to join was the people. During my interviews, I felt authentic warmth and honesty, a genuine passion that made me feel at home. I was also drawn to Iberchem’s forward-looking vision. I wanted to contribute to its journey, not just its present.
My role is to elevate the company’s creative identity, particularly in the Middle East, by guiding the team toward a daring and imaginative approach. Creativity is not only about crafting beautiful fragrances but also about bringing clients along on that journey, showing our artistic capabilities and building trust in our vision. Iberchem should be recognised not only for expertise, but for the soul it brings to perfumery.
PP : Your work is often described as where art meets science. How do you balance technical precision with emotional storytelling in a perfume?
MB : Perfumery is a dialogue between science and emotion. Technically, a perfume must have the right strength, diffusion, and substantivity, the invisible structure allowing it to unfold beautifully on the skin. But technical precision alone isn’t enough. A perfume must tell a story, evoking emotions and memories.
When a creation doesn’t spark the right feelings, I refine it until structure and soul are in harmony. This reflects Iberchem’s philosophy of ‘creativity through science.’ Science provides tools, while creativity gives poetry and emotional depth. My role is to merge the two so every perfume feels masterfully crafted and deeply moving.
PP : If you had to capture your olfactory signature, ‘performance and hedonism’ in one fragrance, which notes would you choose, and why?
MB : I wouldn’t just choose ingredients, but focus on how they are woven together, like musical notes in different rhythms and harmonies. A ballad and a hard rock song may use the same chords, but the experience is entirely different. To express performance, notes like woody/amber, galbanum, or opulent tuberose work well. For hedonism, I like peony, neroli, modern musks and pink grapefruit.
The soul of a fragrance lies in balance: sharp and soft, light and shadow, discipline and desire. It should feel like a tightly choreographed dance, swinging between restraint and release. This is where the true signature emerges, not from what is used, but how it is orchestrated.
PP : Sustainability is increasingly important in perfumery. How do you ensure your creations remain luxurious and memorable while embracing eco-conscious practices?
MB : Sustainability is one of the greatest responsibilities for perfumers today. It’s not just a trend but a shift in how we create. Eco-conscious practices mean reexamining every step: growing, harvesting, extracting raw materials, and honouring the people and environments behind them.
It’s a journey of changing habits, continuously evolving toward mindful creation. The challenge is keeping fragrances luxurious and memorable while respecting the planet. True creativity thrives within constraints; by using sustainable ingredients innovatively, perfumes can smell beautiful and carry a deeper meaning, a promise to future generations that beauty and responsibility coexist.
PP : Growing up surrounded by herbs, flowers and coriander in Belgium, which childhood scents continue to influence your creations today?
MB : Belgium shaped my sensibilities. Aromatic herbs like basil, thyme and coriander remain influential. Flowers such as peony, rose, and linden evoke nostalgia and timeless elegance. And of course, chocolate and pralines, gourmand notes that align perfectly with current trends celebrating warmth and indulgence.
Every perfume I create is a journey back to those early memories, weaving my childhood essence into fragrances that speak to the hearts of others.
PP : Your experiences with Thai culture and mindful hobbies like golf and watercolour painting have clearly shaped your perspective. Do you find parallels between these pursuits and your perfumery process?
MB : Yes. Thai culture, golf, and watercolours all cultivate peace of mind, presence and balance, qualities essential in creating a perfume.
They also reflect the harmony between science and art. In Thai cuisine, you blend the same ingredients differently to create unique flavours. Golf clubs are tools, but vision and precision determine the outcome. Watercolours flow unpredictably, yet create unexpected beauty.
Perfumery follows the same path. We work with the same raw materials, but artistry lies in combining them to evoke emotion, a balance of control and surrender, precision and imagination, a journey toward harmony.
PP : The Middle East has a rich heritage of bold, opulent scents. How do you balance regional traditions with global fragrance trends in your work at Iberchem?
MB : The Middle East has an extraordinary olfactive heritage, with bold, opulent scents. My role is to honour this tradition while translating it for a global audience. I draw on regional preferences, weaving them into creations for international brands, sometimes subtly, sometimes boldly.
For example, Dubai chocolate, a sweet syrup note with pistachio, began as a local favourite and became a global trend. This shows how regional scents can inspire worldwide innovation when approached creatively and respectfully.
Ultimately, it’s about balance: staying true to the Middle East while crafting fragrances that resonate universally, bridging cultures through the invisible language of perfumery.
PP : If you were to create a fragrance that captures ‘this moment in your life,’ what story would it tell, and which notes would define it?
MB : If I were to capture this moment in my life as a fragrance, it would reflect the many cultures and experiences that have shaped me. Just like a perfume, my journey has been built in layers, each chapter leaving its own imprint.
The base: oud, incense, and a touch of praline, depth, warmth, and richness. The heart: rose and pink pepper, a balance of tenderness and energy, representing passion and creativity. The top: coriander, bergamot, and freshly cut grass, bright, invigorating, evoking my roots and my drive for renewal.
This fragrance tells a story of harmony between cultures, a journey of contrasts and connections, much like my life and path as a perfumer.
PP : What message would you like to share with ParfumPlus readers?
MB : We live in challenging times. It’s important to care for yourself and others, pause, breathe and find moments of peace and happiness.
Fragrances can comfort, calm and bring quiet joy. Wear a perfume that makes you feel serene and truly yourself. Personally, I find that vanilla, lavender and soft musks create a cocoon of warmth and tranquillity.
Nurture your senses, spirit and connections. These are the true luxuries of life.
