An interaction with Giorgio Armani’s latest perfume Vert Malachite‘s perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin (Firmenich)
Giorgio Armani / Privé introduced a new ‘La Collection des Terres Précieuses’ collection of fragrances and its first edition is out with Vert Malachite perfume. Ethereal and powerful, Vert Malachite reveals a very feminine sensuality. We talk to the nose behind this perfume, Fabrice Pellegrin (Firmenich)…
Question (Q): Mr Armani owns a piece of Malachite and asked you to interpret that into a fragrance. How did you use the malachite stone as an inspiration?
Fabrice Pellegrin (FP): Mr Armani entrusted me with his Malachite stone of which he is very fond. Its properties are extraordinary. It is known for protecting you from many evils as it absorbs negative energy.
The foundations of my olfactory interpretation lie in its intense and deep green colour. As the cornerstone of the fragrance, lily is a beautiful, strongly scented, powerful, rich and green flower. It is accompanied by Sambac Jasmine which also has a green facet. I selected each ingredient to strengthen the green olfactory density which reflects the intensity of this impressive green stone. The essence of petit grain and bitter orange boosts the green top note. For the perfumer, it represents the very essence of green.
In the top note, bitter orange essence brings a beautiful vibration and a sparkling radiance. The choice of petit grain and orange essences is my tribute to Mr Armani. They come from Southern Italy where the finest quality of these citrus fruit is grown.
Q: How would you describe this fragrance?
FP: This deceptively tame fragrance becomes an enveloping floral before revealing a rich and sexy sensuality.
Q: In what way were you influenced by Russia?
FP: I was considerably influenced by Russia because this stone entrusted to me by
Mr Armani came from the Urals where the most beautiful Malachite deposits are found. The Russian atmosphere was very influential as were the landscapes, vast open spaces! I was struck in particular by the highly controlled aspect of these immensities. I wanted to translate this olfactory sensation by building a formula that was also highly controlled and precise.
Richness, depth, balance and control are the essential features of Vert Malachite inherited from Russia.
Q: Lily does not exist as a natural ingredient in perfumery, how did you develop this accord and in what way did you interpret the lily to make it your own?
FP: There is no such thing as lily essence in the perfumer’s palette. The flower was reproduced through a technique exclusive to Firmenich; Nature Print which takes a snapshot of the aromas of a living flower, like a Polaroid picture. In my reinterpretation of lily, I introduced a few captive molecules to give it that little unique and distinctive touch, unique to the creations of Mr Armani.
Q: What is the Armani/Privé signature present in this fragrance?
FP: Like Armani Privé couture, Vert Malachite is very simple in its construction but very precise in its details. This signature is expressed in the choice and mastery of the finest raw materials.
And finally, the sexy aspect, unique to Mr Armani’s creations, extends a very enveloping floral middle note through rich and exclusive materials: Madagascan Vanilla absolute, the richest and noblest part of the extract, very different from ordinary gourmet vanilla, produces the loveliest delicate effect. And labdanum chosen for its sensuality, gives a subtly animal and warm sexiness.